I had an interesting exchange with a fellow realtor the other day. This realtor had reached out to me about “farms” in the mountains of Perez Zeledon. She’s known me for a long time and knew that I usually have a good inventory of these types of properties. She said her clients were looking for properties with altitude, privacy, a nice home and room to grow their own food…
So, I proceeded to tell her about several that I have that match her clients’ criteria…
Then later I get a response from her telling me that all of those properties were “too far.”
“Too far from what?”, I asked…
“From the beach”, she replied…
Then she offered this – “these clients don’t want to be anywhere near San Isidro.”
“Ok”, I shot back – “I guess that would be a little too much Costa Rica for them?”
I’ve lived in Costa Rica for almost 24 years now. I’ve always chosen to live in areas that are more local than touristy. For the first ten years that was the Central Valley, around the capital city of San Jose. For the last 14, it’s been my beloved Perez Zeledon, near the southern zone gateway city of San Isidro de El General. That place that my fellow realtor’s clients don’t want to be anywhere near…
And I wouldn’t consider living anywhere else – I love it here. When I was contemplating a move away from the big city of San Jose, I made a list of what I wanted. I wanted to live in the mountains, near a sizable city and still be within an hour from the beach and waves. I was still surfing quite a bit 14 years ago. I quickly discovered that Perez Zeledon and the city of San Isidro de El General had literally everything I wanted! So, I moved here. And I’ve never looked back, nor been happier!!
So, it kind of got my dander up to read such a disdainful expression that her client seemed to have had towards my adopted town!
It is always very interesting to me what expats think is the “real Costa Rica.” You invariably will hear them tell you that they are moving to Costa Rica to “live like a local amongst the ticos.” That they want to learn the language and the culture. That they don’t want to be surrounded by “foreigners.” Oh, and of course they don’t want to pay “gringo prices.”
Then once they arrive, they immediately opt for exactly the opposite – like it appears that realtor’s clients are indeed doing.
So, let’s address the question of what exactly is the “real Costa Rica.”
Perhaps the best way to go at it is to address what it’s not…
The real Costa Rica is not a place where signs and menus are in predominantly English.
The real Costa Rica is not a place where prices are mainly expressed in U.S. dollars.
The real Costa Rica is not a place where most people you meet in bars, restaurants and other gathering places are mainly from foreign countries.
The real Costa Rica is not a place where ticos have been driven out in order to make way for living options they could never afford.
I could go on, but I think you might be catching my drift.
You see, what confused me about the sentiments of this realtor’s clients is that San Isidro, the place they don’t want to be anywhere near, is indeed the “real Costa Rica.”
I guess that wasn’t what they were looking for?
Whereas those places the realtor mentioned that her clients didn’t want to be too far from, well, they generally just aren’t.
The reason I am ranting a bit about this is because I believe there’s a lesson to be learned for my readers in this exchange…
You need to decide which Costa Rica YOU want to live in…
The real one, or one that is built around a fantasy of what foreigners believe Costa Rica should be like because it’s what they experienced once (or twice) while on vacation.
The real Costa Rica isn’t flashy. It can be a bit dirty, chaotic, unorganized and noisy. Living and entertainment options in the real Costa Rica might not be up to your standards. The real Costa Rica can even be a bit dangerous in the wrong places and times. The real Costa Rica is a confusing place for expats who don’t yet know the language, the customs, or culture.
Living in the “real Costa Rica” is generally not about an investment opportunity, or maximizing ROI, or property speculation and flipping for a quick buck.
Yea I get it…
I can understand why expats would often opt for locations that simply aren’t the real Costa Rica. It certainly can make the transition for them a bit softer and easier. It might be more in line with their financial expectations of exploiting the country’s incredible beauty to make money.
But you have to ask yourself, in the long-run what kind of existence do I want in this country. One in which I am sequestered and sheltered from reality, or immersed in it?
I can tell you after 24 years of being immersed in the real Costa Rica that I’m glad I opted for reality and I would eagerly do the same again!
I guess it’s a good thing that Costa Rica can offer both options for folks considering this country as a place to live.
However, what expats who think like me don’t want to see is for the “real Costa Rica” to disappear. And in some areas, it is in fact disappearing.
For me, the real Costa Rica is a beautiful and fascinating place. Oh sure, I enjoy going down to tourist fantasy land and imbibing from time to time in the fancy, flashy and ridiculously expensive options that abound down there…
But I’m always happy to be able to come back home…
to reality.
